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Section 0 Galloway and Border Hills
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Section 4 - Loch Linnhe to Loch Ericht Mountains
Section 4 - This section refers to the hills and mountains between Loch Linnhe and Loch Ericht and include the Mamores, Ben Nevis, the Aonachs, Grey Corries and the Easains. They cover the Corbetts, Grahams and Munros that I have climbed in this area since 2003.
Index to Hills in this Section
Ben Nevis20 September 2007
This walk was booked several months ago by three chaps from Shropshire who wanted to climb Ben Nevis via the Carn Mor Dearg arête. However the weather in the west coast of Scotland had been fairly poor for most of September and the forecast for the day of the walk was wet and windy. However their flights and hotel accommodation had already been booked so an attempt to summit Ben Nevis was still on. We met in Fort William and at that time the weather was reasonable but it was early and the forecast was still for rain with strong winds arriving around mid-morning. We agreed to start off up the ‘mountain path’ and at Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe reassess the situation. The lochan is commonly known as the ‘Half Way Lochan’ but it is only around one third of the way to the summit of The Ben. We walked up the mountain path and en-route spoke to a runner who had been to the summit and said it was windy there. At the Lochan the decision was made to continue up the mountain path. Higher up we entered the cloud, it started to rain and was fairly windy. The conditions continued to deteriorate as we reached the deserted summit. My clients had a look round the summit, which was a tip with pieces of rubbish lying around. We returned by the mountain path in record time, well a lot faster than my last descent of The Ben. The weather continued to deteriorate and we passed several walkers headed for the summit, including eleven teams on a Three Peaks Challenge. Some of the walkers were, as usual for Ben Nevis, ill equipped for the weather conditions. A few walkers had made the sensible decision and had given up and were returning down the path. It was unfortunate for my clients that they didn’t get to tackle the Carn Mor Dearg arête having travelled so far but at least they got to the summit of the highest mountain in the United Kingdom.
Walk Round Loch Ossian22 August 2007
This was day two for Thomas and Yvonne so we caught the early morning train from Tulloch, which was conveniently situated to our accommodation at Station Lodge. We alighted at Corrour, the next stop south from Tulloch , where there is only a couple of buildings, one being Corrour Station House, which caters for bed and breakfast and meals. There is no public road access to Corrour so the train is the only practical means of access unless you wish to walk in from the nearest public road many miles away. It was a pleasant morning but the midges were out as we walked along the vehicle track towards Loch Ossian. On reaching the junction of tracks we took the one going round the north side of the Loch where there was an occasional breeze to keep those midges away. At the far end of the Loch we passed the new Corrour Lodge with its large glass frontage looking out onto the water. Beyond the Lodge we came to the Estate houses, some of which can be rented. We also came across the Stables with the Icelandic Horses and were invited in by one of the ladies tending to them. This pleased Yvonne who was an ardent animal lover. After some time at the Stables we walked along the south side of Loch Ossian to the Youth Hostel which was locked and closed till 5pm. However we made use of their picnic table to have our lunch in the sun at the side of the Loch. We sat there for some time before heading back to Corrour Station where we visited the Station House while awaiting the mid-afternoon train back to Tulloch. Walk to the North Face21 August 2007
Thomas and Yvonne from Bavaria were staying at the Independent Hostel at Station Lodge, Tulloch near Roy Bridge for four nights where in addition to their accommodation, the owners of the Hostel, Alan and Belinda, were catering for all their meals. It was my job to guide them on some walks in the area but they didn't wish to go high up. This first day, which is always the hardest with new clients as you are never fully aware of their expectations or abilities, I decided on a walk up to below the North Face of Ben Nevis. This is a more interesting and scenic route than the normal path used by tourists to climb The Ben. We parked in the car park at Torlundy, which is signposted from the A82 north of Fort William, and headed off through the forest. A new and fairly steep path led through the forest and onto the open hillside with views of Fort William and Loch Eil and occasionally when the cloud cleared the North Face of The Ben and the Carn Mor Dearg Arête. The path was followed up the side of the Allt a'Mhuillin, but higher up it became a bit rough. We reached the CIC Hut, its full name being the Charles Inglis Clark Memorial Hut where it was rather windy. We saw a couple of climbers, who we had spoken to earlier, head up to the foot of the cliffs. Yvonne and Thomas decided that due to the wind they didn't want to go any further into the corrie so we headed back down. However I took them to the path that led over to Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe and gave them directions for the mountain path. I returned to the North Face Car park and drove round to the Visitor Centre in Glen Nevis and headed up the mountain path and met them at the junction with the path that led to the Youth Hostel. It was sunny on this side of the mountain but they had preferred the other side where it was a lot quieter and the path was in better condition. On returning to the Visitor Centre we drove to the head of Glen Nevis and visited the Nevis Gorge and walked as far as the Steall Bridge but the midges were a real nuisance there. Later we also had a look at Neptune's Staircase at the start of the Caledonian Canal. Stob Coire Sgriodain and Chno Dearg18 July 2007
The start of this walk was the hamlet of Fersit reached along a single track road on the south side of the A86 Newtonmore to Spean Bridge road, west of Roy Bridge. At the end of the public road there was a large turning area sufficiently big to allow parking for several vehicles. I set off and walked passed the houses at Fersit and crossed the River Treig and the railway line by bridges. Once beyond the fenced area east of Fersit I left the vehicle track and headed over some wet and boggy ground. I kept close to one of the streams flowing from Lochan Coire an Lochain and found a path, obviously used by walkers and cattle, which was slightly easier to traverse than the surrounding wet vegetation. Higher up I left this path and made my way towards Sron na Garbh-bheinne, which is a mass of rocks to the north of Stob Coire Sgriodain. I found a grassy gully which I climbed but it was hot work as there was no breeze. Once on the ridge there was a bit of a wind and it was a pleasant walk traversing round some rocks to the summit of Stob Coire Sgriodain. I sat eating my lunch with views of the Easains, the Grey Corries, across to the Glen Coe mountains and down into Loch Treig. Further south around the Bridge of Orchy area it was very dark and they were obviously having some poor weather which I hoped wasn’t heading in my direction as some areas of Scotland had experienced thunderstorms the previous day. After lunch I headed over to Stob Coire Sgriodain’s South Top which was rather rocky and here I spotted a large herd of deer feeding above Coire Meadhoin. Unfortunately they soon spotted me and headed off round the south side of Meall Garbh. I descended from this Munro Top to a bealach where more deer crossed my path before I commenced the easy grassy climb to the bealach between Meall Garbh and Chno Dearg. From here it was a short and easy walk to the summit of Chno Dearg. There was still bad weather to the south but I had views to the west of the Easains and Grey Corries and to the east Carn Dearg. I took a few photographs before I headed down the north side of Chno Dearg. Here the underfoot conditions were fairly wet all the way down the mountainside where I saw a couple of mountain hares and several frogs. I eventually reached the vehicle track used on the outward journey and returned to my car.
Ben Nevis30 June 2007
The client for this ascent of Ben Nevis by the mountain path was a lady from London who apparently takes on challenges without fully realising the problems involved. On this occasion she had announced that she was going to climb Ben Nevis for charity and subsequently contacted me to guide her to the summit and back. We set off from the Ben Nevis Visitor Centre in Glen Nevis, crossed the River Nevis by the footbridge, and commenced the ascent of Ben Nevis. The mountain path was already busy not just with walkers setting off but also those completing the descent. There was another of those Three Peaks Challenge on so the path would be busy all day. The forecast was good for the morning so those out early would have the best of the weather. It became evident that my client had underestimated the ascent of Ben Nevis. She soon found it tough going and started to struggle as the majority of other walkers passed us. However after a short food stop near Loch Meall an t-Suidhe she felt a bit better till around 900 metres when she really started to struggle and found it very difficult to continue. Slowly she reached the summit trig point where we had a summit photo. Here we met a lady from Dundee who told me that she was part of a group of sixty people from that area who had travelled to Fort William that morning by bus also to climb Ben Nevis for charity. There were no views from the summit as cloud covered the top prior to our arrival. It had been building up from the south-west for a few hours but those that arrived before us managed to get some views. However my client wasn’t worried about the low cloud that had engulfed the summit as she was too exhausted. We had some more food before setting off down the mountain path. Unfortunately the rocky and stony path wasn’t to her liking and the descent took almost as long as the ascent. There were still several groups of charity walkers ascending the mountain via the path. The lady was delighted to get back to the car park but her comments about Ben Nevis will have to be left in the Glen.
Stob Ban27 June 2007
Dave and Joyce, from Pennsylvania, USA, visit Scotland every year for their vacation and this year they were staying in the Fort William area. For the past four years they had requested that I arrange to take them up a Munro. Unfortunately on all the previous visits they had bad weather. I had decided on Carn Mor Dearg or Stob Ban in the Mamores as both have good views, in particular Carn Mor Dearg which looks onto the North Face of Ben Nevis, the best side of our highest mountain. I had hoped for good weather but the forecast indicated snow showers and that the weather would deteriorate later in the day. In the morning when I looked at the mountains Carn Mor Dearg was covered in cloud drifting off Ben Nevis so Stob Ban it was. We drove up Glen Nevis to the Pay and Display Car just east of Achriabhach. Payment is voluntary but the monies raised go to maintenance of the area. From this car park we walked up the path on the east side of the Allt Coire a’Mhusgain. Initially the weather was in our favour with some sunny spells and with views down Glen Nevis and across to the lower slopes of Ben Nevis. As we gained height the cloud was building up to the west and on reaching the bealach at the head of the corrie it started to sleet. However from the bealach we did manage some quick views across to the Glencoe mountains and the south end of Loch Linnhe. The east ridge of Stob Ban was ascended. Initially the path passed through some grassy terrain before the path steepened and crossed some rock and scree which was a new experience for my American clients. The snow showers were brief but the summit was cloud covered as we reached the cairn. However we stayed at the cairn for a bit of lunch hoping that the cloud would clear but despite some brief glimpses it didn’t happen. We were back at the bealach before the cloud cleared the summit of Stob Ban. We also had more views of the Glencoe mountains before following the path used on the upward route back to the start. Although it wasn’t a fine sunny day as I had hoped at least on this occasion Dave and Joyce at least had some views and the weather for Scotland wasn’t too bad.
Sgurr Eilde Mor26 June 2007
It was a pleasant morning when we drove to Mamore Lodge north of Kinlochmore where for a small fee parking was permitted within the Hotel car park. We set off from the car park and followed the vehicle track west towards Loch Eilde Mor. Around a kilometre before reaching this Loch we took the stalker's path up to Coire an Lochain. There was a cool wind blowing at times but we were enjoying some good views especially back along Loch Leven . At Loch Coire an Lochain we walked along the south side of this loch and commenced the ascent of the south ridge of Sgurr Eilde Mor. There were traces of a path but the climb was relatively easy with a few rocks to traverse. We came across a female ptarmigan and around eight chicks which were trying to waddle across the rocks and away from us. We took a slight diversion to avoid them and continued to the summit of Sgurr Eilde Mor where we had lunch. In fact we remained at the summit, which was Shona’s 200th Munro, for over an hour, enjoying the sun and taking in the views, which included Ben Nevis, Aonach Beag, the Grey Corries, the Easains, the Glencoe Mountains, south to the Bridge of Orchy hills and of course the usual sight of Schiehallion. We were briefly joined by two other walkers who had come up the west ride. After the long rest break we descended the west ridge, which had a bit of scree to content with, and round the north and west sides of Loch Coire an Lochain. We rejoined the path used in the upward route and followed it back to Mamore Lodge.
Ben Alder Trip22 – 24 May 2007
This trip had been planned for a few months as part of Laila’s challenge to finish her Munros. She was joined by Norman who was working his way through the Munros trying to ensure he didn’t leave the more remote ones to the end. The approach to the Ben Alder Group of Munros is normally from the Railway Station at Dalwhinnie where there is limited parking. This entails a long walk, or cycle down the north-west shore of Loch Ericht as far as Ben Alder Lodge on a good vehicle track. However access by vehicle is controlled at a gate beside the Estate Office near the start of the track. I had an exemption so the start of our three day trip was from the rear of Ben Alder Lodge with a walk along the vehicle track towards Loch Pattack and then the path to Culra Bothy crossing a small swing footbridge over the Allt a’Chaoil-reidhe just before reaching the bothy. Don’t confuse the bothy with the newly renovated Culra Lodge nearby. We found a vacant room at the bothy and set out our sleeping gear on the platforms. A discussion took place as to whether or not to try for one of the Munros as it was only just after 4pm. We only had sufficient time to climb one of the mountains so I decided on what I thought would be the hardest of the trip, Ben Alder. We left the bothy, returned to the footbridge and re-crossed the Allt a’Chaoil-reidhe and followed the well maintained path up its south-east side to around 670 metres where we left the path, crossed some heathery ground and descended to cross the Allt a’Bhealaich Bheithe. Thereafter we headed over some rough ground to the Long Leachas and ascended this ridge with a wee bit of difficulty due to the wind and wet rock, in particular near the top of the ridge. Eventually we arrived on the Ben Alder plateau and walked to its summit as the cloud came in obscuring the top, marked with a cairn and trig point. After a few minutes at the summit we walked round the corrie and out of the cloud before the steep, rough and in places wet descent towards Bealach Breabag. It had already been decided that we hadn’t enough time to include Beinn Bheoil so once down the steepest section we headed to the path leading to Loch a’Bhealaich Bheithe. This path was followed to and along the east shore of the loch but was wet and boggy in sections. However at the outflow of the loch the path had been upgraded and this was the one used on the approach to Ben Alder so we followed it back to the bothy. The next morning it was wet and windy. Norman had the four Munros on the north side of the Bealach Dubh to climb while Laila only required the easterly two. Norman set off half and hour before us and I had hoped that we would meet on Geal-charn, Norman’s third Munro. Laila and I followed Norman’s route, which was over the Bealach Dubh, but only as far as the outflow from Loch an Sgoir. We followed this outflow and climbed onto the ridge south-west of Diollaid a’Chairn. The next section was a steeper climb onto the Geal-charn plateau where visibility was very poor due to low cloud. It was a very featureless area so we followed a bearing to the summit cairn. There was no sign of Norman but we were unlikely to see him in these conditions so we returned to the ridge we ascended earlier and headed for Carn Dearg as the cloud broke up slightly and although still windy we had some sunny spells so it was time for a lunch stop. On finishing lunch a figure was seen at the top of the ridge but we were unable to identify the person so we ascended Carn Dearg as the figure got closer and the clothing was similar to Norman’s. From Carn Dearg we descended to Culra Bothy as we watched Norman closing in on us and he arrived at the bothy a few minutes after us. Although the weather was clear it was windy but both Norman and Laila were keen on going out again and climbing the final Munro of the trip, Beinn Bheoil. I had my doubts as I felt Laila was tired after the last two days but she wanted to get it over with so after a break and some food and hot drinks we set off for Beinn Bheoil using the same path as for Ben Alder the previous day. Where the path changed direction we headed towards Beinn Bheoil trying to stay off the ridge due to the strong wind. Laila, who doesn’t like the wind, was now fairly slow as she tired while Norman, although feeling the effects of his earlier ascent of the four Munros was still keen on setting a reasonable pace so he led the way up the ridge. Higher up the ascent became steeper and more exposed and the cloud base lowered. Norman had reached the summit cairn and passed us on his way back down while Laila struggled to the summit. We returned to Culra by the route of ascent although we did keep to the ridge more as there was very little difference in the exposure to the wind. Once back at the bothy it was time for a meal and a well earned rest. The next morning, having climbed all the Munros necessary we returned to Ben Alder Lodge.
Ring of Steall12 May 2007
I met Frank and Peter at the entrance to Glen Nevis camp site. Peter had phoned me just over twelve hours earlier from his work on the outskirts of London advising me that he was leaving home in the next few hours and heading for Fort William. He assured me that he would arrive in time for our 8 o’clock start. This caused me a bit of concern as the Ring of Steall is a fairly demanding day and I wasn’t sure how Peter would cope without any sleep. Peter in fact arrived in Fort William at 7am. We drove to the car park at the head of Glen Nevis and walked through the gorge to the meadows. Here we used the wire bridge to cross the Water of Nevis before we crossed the Allt Coire a’Mhail below the waterfall. This was followed by a boggy section of ground before the steep ascent of An Gearanach. A path lead all the way to the summit cairn, where despite some cloud we had views back to Glen Nevis and to the cloud covered tops of Ben Nevis and Aonach Beag. After a short break at this summit we followed the narrowing south ridge to An Garbhanach which involved a bit of easy scrambling. The cloud began to engulf the ridge at times but at least there was no wind to contend with. From An Garbhanach a fairly steep and in places eroded descent led to a bealach before the climb to the second Munro of the day, Stob Coire a’Chairn. There was no point in remaining on this summit, as due to the low cloud, we had no views so we descended Stob Coire a’Chairn’s south-west ridge before a relatively steep ascent of Am Bodach. Here there were several paths, most of which were badly worn with lots of loose rocks and stones, however after a bit of effort, even from Peter who must have been very tired, we reached the summit with restricted views due to the cloud. It was now time for lunch but rather than sit at the summit we descended to the bealach west of Am Bodach where the cloud had started to lift. Sitting there we had views across to the Aonach Eagach and glimpses of Bidean nam Bian. We also had views back along the ridge and the afternoon’s section of the Ring of Steall. After lunch we climbed the demoted Munro, Sgurr an Iubhar, now a Munro Top and onto another Munro Top, Stob Choire a’Mhail. At this point it started to hail, initially fairly gently but later it became a bit heavier as we walked along the Devil’s Ridge. This made the traverse that bit more awkward as the two rocky sections were now wet and slippery. We traversed to the west of the first section but the second section of rock had to be down climbed. Once over these sections it was a steady ascent to the summit of Sgurr a’Mhaim which was almost white with hailstones. There was still some old snow in the northern corrie. The long descent of Sgurr a’Mhaim’s north-west ridge commenced in showers of hail and then rain but we eventually reached the car park at Achriabhach where Frank gave me a lift to the upper car park to collect my vehicle. I was surprised to see how Peter coped with the walk, in particular after lunch when he seemed to pick up the pace. He was even considering heading home in the evening rather than camping overnight in Glen Nevis but later decided on the safer option.
Glas Bheinn22 April 2007
It was a damp morning when we set off from the Grey Mare Waterfall car park in Kinlochmore which adjoins and is located north of Kinlochleven. We followed the red signposted route but shortly thereafter lost it for a few minutes as one of the signs beside a white cottage wasn’t obvious. Once on the correct path we climbed steadily through woods. There had obviously been an extensive grass fire as the whole hillside had been burnt. Beyond the forest we were on open moorland still on a path which eventually joined the vehicle track which led from Mamore Lodge to Loch Eilde Mor. This track was followed for a short distance before we left it and took the path that led down to Loch Eilde Mor and round to its south-west edge. Thereafter the condition of the path deteriorated along the shore of the loch and up to Meall na Cruaidhe. The weather had been a mixture of low cloud and showers but visibility was now poor but a small lochan was the indicator to leave the path and commence the ascent of Glas Bheinn. This required following a bearing over heather and grass but eventually we reached the summit cairn. Visibility was still poor so there was no point in remaining at the summit and we returned to the path near the lochan. Instead of following the path we continued downhill over some rough terrain to the Allt Coire na Duibhe where at a venting system for a water pipeline we had lunch. Afterwards a path along the side of the pipeline was taken for a short distance before descending, again over rough ground, to the path on the north side of the River Leven. This path was followed back to Kinlochmore in the wettest conditions we had all day.
Beinn na Gucaig2 March 2007
I was en-route to Kintail from the Trossachs area to do some guiding work and as I had some time to spare I decided to tackle the Graham, Beinn na Gucaig as it was close to my route of travel. Studying the map I elected to climb this mountain from Inchree between Ballachulish and Fort William. Inchree is just off the main road so I drove through this tiny hamlet to a small car park within a forest. The car park would normally be frequented by those wishing to stroll through the Glenrigh Forest or who were visiting a nearby waterfall. I followed a path northeast through the forest to a small quarry and then continued on a vehicle track. Here I saw the first frog spawn of the year but it is unlikely to produce any tadpoles as it is too early in the year as there will be more snow and ice to come before Spring truly arrives. I was now looking for a fire break in the forest to gain access to the open hillside so that I could commence the ascent of Beinn na Gucaig. However I never found any suitable break so I decided to continue to the end of the track. Here there was a small stream to follow uphill through the trees to a deer fence which I had to clamber over. Once above the forest I had good views down Loch Linnhe towards the Island of Mull and across the Loch to the hills of Ardgour. I also had a view of Corpach near Fort William and up the Great Glen. The ground, which was fairly wet, consisted mainly of heather and afforded reasonable walking conditions. The sun was shinning so the conditions were fairly pleasant. As height was gained the snow clad and cloudy summit of Ben Nevis came into view. On approaching the summit trig point I found out that I had been on the sheltered side of the mountain during my ascent as there was a cold wind on the top. I stopped there for a while looking at the surrounding mountains, the tops of which were snow and cloud covered. On identifying the nearby mountains I set off down the south west ridge of Beinn na Gucaig and over the 575 Point. Initially the ground was a bit spongy and awkward to traverse but beyond the 575 knoll there was an ATV track along the ridge. Here I saw a hairy caterpillar but as with the frog spawn I thought it was too early in the year for it to survive. Lower down I left the ridge to get some shelter for lunch. Once fed, instead of returning to the ridge, I descended towards a stream and the vehicle track heading to Gleann Righ. The underfoot conditions were again very soft with deep heather and dead grasses which slowed progress. On reaching the track it was only a short walk back to the car park. In hindsight I should have continued down the ridge following the ATV track as I was making reasonable progress there rather than taking what I thought was a short cut through ankle breaking terrain.
Mam na Gualainn & Tom Meadhoin16 December 2006
The start of this walk was the B863 North Ballachluish to Kinlochleven road just east of Calvert House where there is a 'Right of Way' to Lairigmor where you can join the West Highland Way to Fort William or Kinlochleven. Just east of this path and round a bend in the road is a small parking area provided you don't obstruct a gate. We waited in the car for a heavy shower to pass before we set off along the very wet and in places boggy 'Right of Way' through a small plantation. The heavy rain of the past week hadn't improved the underfoot conditions. The climb to the bealach was interspersed with rain showers and underfoot it was still rather wet. We reached the bealach which was also the snow line and commenced the climb onto the south-west ridge of Mam na Gualainn. Here there was a bit of a breeze compared to the calm conditions we experienced on the climb to the bealach. The snow was very wet and slippery but higher up it was firmer and walking was easier. Once established on the ridge there was a heavy snow shower with reduced visibility but a fence was soon reached which aided navigation. I had been on this route before so when we reached a gate we passed through it and headed towards the summit. This avoided climbing over the fence near the summit. Visibility hadn't improved as we reached the summit trig point and cairn. It was cold with some blowing snow with poor visibility so we didn't linger at the cairn and followed our boot prints back to the bealach as the cloud cleared. At the bealach we found some shelter for lunch but unfortunately after a few minutes we were hit by another rain shower. After a quick lunch we headed west onto the east ridge of Tom Meadhoin with a fairly flat section which was wet and boggy. Beyond this we reached the snow line again and climbed more steeply onto the north ridge of Tom Meadhoin. There had been a break in the cloud with a brief sunny period but it had started to snow again by the time we reached the small summit cairn of Tom Meadhoin. The conditions were deteriorating so we commenced our descent back towards the bealach avoiding the wet and boggy section by traversing below it and joining the 'Right of Way' just south of the bealach. Here we met our first walker of the day, a lady doing some navigation. However her dog didn't take to us and started barking. The rest of the descent was uneventful still with a few showers.
Meall na Meoig9 December 2006
The drive to the start of this walk was rather tricky as the wet and occasionally flooded single track road was frozen in places making traction virtually non existent and being a remote road it hadn't been gritted. The start was on the B846 Kinloch Rannoch to Rannoch Station road just over two kilometres east of Rannoch Station on the north side of Loch Eigheach. Here a vehicle track, part of the 'Road to the Isles' headed north-west then north to a bridge over the Allt Eigheach. As I walked along this track I heard and saw the morning train from Glasgow pass through Rannoch Station en-route to Fort William and Mallaig. This was the only human activity I saw until my return. At the bridge over the Allt Eigheach, which has been renewed during the last couple of years I remained on the east bank and followed All Terrain Vehicle (ATV) tracks to the east of Leacann nan Giomach before leaving these tracks and heading up Leacann nan Giomach and on towards Beinn Pharlagain. The weather had been a bit changeable and as I gained height the cloud lowered and I lost any views I had. Around 700 metres I reached the snow level and headed to and over the 807 metres point of Beinn Pharlagain. As I walked towards Garbh Mheall Mor the cloud started to break up and I had views of Loch Rannoch and Schiehallion. The snow was rather deeper here than I had anticipated and was fairly crisp due to the wind but wouldn't hold my weight so on ever step I sank into the snow. From the summit of Garbh Meall Mor I had views of Ben Alder, Beinn Bheoil and Loch Ericht before the final short walk and climb to the summit of Meall na Meoig. The views of Ben Alder and Beinn Bheoil were now obscured by darkening clouds but the summits of Sgor Gaibhre and Carn Dearg were still visible. I took a few photographs from the summit but there was a cold wind blowing and with the prospect of a heavy snow shower heading my way I descended west then south-west off the hill and avoided the snow shower. Lower down the terrain was a bit wet with peat hags so I crossed over to the ATV track on the west side of the Allt Eigheach and followed it south. The ATV track was wet and boggy in places with sleepers to cross which I didn't trust as one slip and it would be into the bog. The track didn't follow the Allt Eigheach but climbed slightly and joined the 'Road to the Isles' path north-west of the small forest plantation. I followed the vehicle track south, crossed the Allt Eigheach and returned to the start by my approach route. Near the end of the walk the afternoon train from Glasgow was heading north. These trains were the only sign of civilisation I had all day.
Carn Dearg and Sgor Gaibhre18 October 2006
My client and I had resided overnight at Loch Ossian Youth Hostel so we were well positioned for climbing the two mountains to the south of Loch Ossian. It was a fine still morning when we left the Hostel although the mountain tops were cloud covered and there was some low cloud in the glen. We set off along the very wet and boggy path to Peter’s Rock and climbed the ridge to Meall na Leitire Duibhe. A few weeks earlier I had been in contact with the Estate and they were happy for us to climb these mountains as long as we stayed on the ridges as it was the final week of the stag stalking season and they told me it was their busiest time of the year. On the climb to Meall na Leitire Duibhe we heard the roar of the stags and this continued for most of the day. We never saw any of them but did spot some hinds. From Meall na Leitire Duibhe we headed to Carn Dearg in the mist and the visibility had not improved by the time we reached the summit cairn. We descended the north-east ridge of Carn Dearg to the bealach as the cloud started to break up but this didn’t last as we were back in the cloud as we commenced the climb of Sgor Gaibhre. It was a steady ascent but once again we had no views when we reached the summit cairn so there was no point in hanging around this top. From the summit of Sgor Gaibhre we descended to Bealach nan Sgor and climbed the Munro Top Sgor Choinnich again without any views. The descent from Sgorr Gaibhre took us over Meall Nathrach Mor and down its west ridge. As we lost height we came out of the cloud and had views of Loch Ossian. Lower down a new deer fence had been erected to the east of the forest at the east end of Loch Ossian so a slight deviation was required to the gate in the fence before we headed over to the path that led to Culra bothy. There was evidence of work being carried out at the bridge over the Uisge Labhair and a sign on a fence nearby stated that the bridge was closed to walkers. Unfortunately there aren’t many alternatives if the river is in spate. We walked along the path to the east end of Loch Ossian, as the cloud started to lift from the surrounding mountains, and followed the track on the south side of the Loch back to the Youth Hostel, latterly in pleasant Autumn sunshine. We had three hours to wait for the train back south but the autumn colours were interesting and it was warm enough to sit outside for a while before we headed to the Restaurant at Corrour Station House to wait for the evening train.
Leum Uilleim17 October 2006
I was booked to take a client over the two Munros on the south side of Loch Ossian which meant the day before I either had a long walk in or I had to utilise the trains that run between Glasgow and Fort William. I opted for the latter joining the train at the remote Rannoch Station alighting at Corrour. Here there is only one occupied building, the Corrour Station House. It is used as a restaurant and bed and breakfast establishment. I was staying overnight at Loch Ossian Youth Hostel, about a mile east of the Station. The Hostel is surrounded by trees, in an idyllic location at the west end of Loch Ossian. I arrived at the Hostel and checked in. I had a plan that if I had sufficient day light left I would attempt an ascent of the Corbett Leum Uilleim. However it was now around 4.15pm with low cloud making it rather dull but I thought I could make the summit before it became dark. I returned to Corrour Station, crossed the railway line and headed south-west. Immediately I was confronted by a very wet and boggy area caused by All Terrain Vehicles, and it took careful footwork not to disappear into the quagmire. Once beyond this area the wet and boggy ground was a bit easier to negotiate and then I reached Leum Uilleim’s north-east ridge. I climbed this ridge called Sron an Lagain Ghairbh which led to a more level area before the final short climb to the summit. However by the time the summit visibility was very poor and it was getting dark. Initially I couldn’t see the cairn but on moving a few metres to my right there it was in the gloom. Once I located the cairn I headed back by my route of ascent. As daylight faded care was required but once back around 500 metres I could see the lights of Corrour Station and later the evening train heading south. The boggy section was hard going especially beside the Station but once on the track to the Youth Hostel it was easy to follow without the use of my head torch. I reached the Hostel three hours after I had set out so I was happy that I had made the effort.
Carn Mor Dearg and Ben Nevis via The Arête15 October 2006
I had been contacted a few weeks earlier by Jodi asking if I would be available to take her boyfriend and herself up Ben Nevis as a birthday present for him. She didn’t want to take the mountain track to the summit so we agreed to try the Carn Mor Dearg arête. I met Jodi and her boyfriend David in Fort William where we discussed the plans for the day before setting off for the North Face Car Park at Torlundy, north of Fort William. We headed off from the Car Park and followed the path south-west to the Allt a’Mhuilinn before taking another path up the side of the stream. It was a cool morning with some low cloud in the glens. Higher up we left the path and climbed through some heather and boggy ground onto the north-west ridge of Carn Dearg Meadhonach, a Munro Top, where we followed a path to the bealach north of its summit. It was now a pleasant sunny day with cloud rolling over and obscuring the arête. Everything to the south was covered in a cloud inversion with Carn Mor Dearg and Ben Nevis being the barrier between the sunny and clear north and west. We climbed Carn Dearg Meadhonach before descending slightly and ascending Carn Mor Dearg, Jodi and David’s first Munro. Here we had good views of Ben Nevis and the climbing areas of the North face, as well as the sun drenched cloud to the south. After taking in the views we headed for the arête and entered the rolling cloud. This was Jodi’s and David’s first experience of scrambling and they coped well and we managed to stay on the highest parts of the arête. The arête took around ninety minutes to traverse before we reached the final ascent of Ben Nevis. This involved clambering over some large and rough rocks before reaching the summit plateau of Ben Nevis. Here it was fairly busy with walkers having ascended by the mountain path now partaking of their lunch in the sun. The conditions were ideal on the summit with virtually no wind, an unusual experience on Britain's highest mountain. We climbed to the summit trig point before having lunch and a look round the summit including a view down the North Face. We remained at the summit for some time enjoying the views and the weather before setting off down the mountain path to Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe, commonly known as the ‘Half-Way Lochan’. At Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe a new path took us to its north end before it came to an end. From here we descended some heather and bog, crossed the Allt a’Mhuilinn and followed the path we used in the morning back to the North Face Car Park. Jodi and David were very lucky to have such ideal weather to climb Ben Nevis especially in October and I think they enjoyed the experience despite it being their first adventure onto the high mountains of Scotland. Fortunately they were fit which made things a lot easier for them and me.
Ring of Steall10 September 2006
I met my clients at the Scottish Youth Hostel in Glen Nevis and we drove to the car park at Achriabhach where we left a car and continued in the other vehicle to the car park at the head of Glen Nevis. We walked through the Nevis Gorge, where tragically a young lass lost her life recently in a fall. Extreme care is required here especially when the rocks are wet and slippery. Once beyond the gorge we headed for the Steall Bridge, which consists of three wires. The crossing by the bridge was optional as the Water of Nevis was quite low, so Sue used the protruding stones to cross the river while the rest of us used the bridge. We then headed to below the Steall Waterfall where the crossing of the Allt Coire a'Mhail was difficult as the boulders were very slippery with slime. The next problem was crossing a wet and boggy section of ground. Once beyond the bog the ascent of the north ridge of An Gearanach commenced. It was a steady climb on a good path but was war work as it was a fine day. We eventually reached the summit where there was a bit of a breeze with views of the Mamores, Ben Nevis, Aonach Beag and the Grey Corries. From An Gearanach we followed a narrow and in places rocky ridge to the Munro Top, An Garbhanach and then onto the second Munro of the day Stob Coire a'Chairn with views of the Glencoe mountains. The next Munro on the ridge was Am Bodach which involved another fairly steep climb on a path that was a bit worn with some loose rocks. There were two cairns marking the summit so we visited both as the easterly one gave a better view. We descended from Am Bodach and were now midway round the Ring of Steall. The walk continued over the Munro Tops Sgurr an Iubhair and Stob Coire a'Mhail before reaching the Devil's Ridge. This ridge narrowed significantly and there was some rocks to scramble across but over the years paths below the rocks on either side have been created making things easier. We opted for the easterly bypass and thereafter it was a steady pull onto the summit of the final Munro of the day, Sgurr a'Mhaim. The descent from Sgurr a'Mhaim involved following a path down its north-west ridge, initially over scree but later on it was just an eroded walker's path. We eventually reached the car park at Achriabhach and the short drive to the head of Glen Nevis to retrieve the other car.
Ben Alder Group11 - 13 August 2006
The walk commenced in Dalwhinnie, just south of the railway station, where we crossed the railway line and set off for the long walk down the west shore of Loch Ericht eventually reaching Ben Alder Lodge. Here the track left the shores of Loch Ericht and headed towards Loch Pattack. Before reaching Loch Pattack we left the vehicle track and followed a path to Culra Bothy. It is quite possible to cycle this route, either using the route described above or continuing on the vehicle track to Loch Pattack and then onto Culra Bothy. However my client had decided that she wished to walk in and out. The bothy wasn't busy and my client found a room to herself while I camped nearby and used the bothy to cook in to get away from the midges. The next morning the mountain tops were cloud covered and it was windy. We set off from the bothy, passed the building at Culra which was under renovation, and climbed onto the north-east ridge of Carn Dearg and to its summit. The cloud had cleared the tops by this time so we had some reasonable views. The route to the next Munro took us east to Diollaid a' Chairn with Loch an Sgoir below us. This was followed by a climb onto the plateau of Geal-charn by a narrowing ridge on the north side of a waterfall. The actual summit of Geal-charn is not visible until you are almost at the cairn and from experience it is difficult to locate in bad weather. From Geal-charn we descended to the bealach with Aonach Beag which was followed by a relatively easy climb to its summit. The descent to the Aonach Beag/Beinn Eibhinn bealach was a bit steeper as was the path on the ascent to Beinn Eibhinn which had some loose stones to be aware of. We reached the summit of Beinn Eibhinn just over four hours after we set off from Culra Bothy so it was decided that we should continue and climb Ben Alder as well, which was actually on the cards for the next day. The descent from Beinn Eibhinn was pathless as we cut across to the stream coming out of Coire a'Charra Bhig and down to the Uisge Labhair. On this descent there were lots of frogs and a couple of lizards. We also spotted deer which soon disappeared. From the Uisge Labhair the ascent of Ben Alder commenced over some rough and heathery ground crossing the path from Bealach Dubh to Ben Alder Cottage and continuing uphill as it started to rain and the mountain was engulfed by cloud. We headed for the east face of Ben Alder and used it to reach the summit cairn and trig point in mist and rain. There was no point in remaining at the summit so we navigated round the south side of Ben Alder and descended to the Bealach Breabag as the rain ceased and the cloud started to break up. However it was only a short respite as the rain and low cloud returned as we ascended Beinn Bheoil where it was wet and misty. On the descent of the north ridge of Beinn Bheoil the rain ceased and the low cloud started to break up. This allowed us to see a herd of stags in front of us (see photo). We soon reached the path from Culra to the Bealach Beithe and followed it back to Culra Bothy. The following day we returned to Dalwhinnie by the route we had used two days before. The mountain tops were covered in cloud but it was dry.
previous ascent of Carn Dearg, Geal-charn, Ben Alder and Beinn Bheoil Ben Nevis via The Arête28 July 2006
I met my clients, Mark and Emma, at the Visitor Centre Car Park in Glen Nevis where there is now a Pay and Display machine, although at the moment it appears voluntary whether or not you pay . We left a car there and drove round to the North Face Car Park at Torlundy, north of Fort William. From this parking area we walked through the forest to the Allt a'Mhuilinn and followed it out onto the open hillside. It was very humid in the forest but once out on the open it started to rain which was rather refreshing. Higher up we left the path and commenced the climb of Carn Dearg Meadhonach. The rain had stopped and there was lots of low cloud with occasional breaks to give some atmospheric views of the North Face of Ben Nevis. We reached the summit of Carn Dearg Meadhonach followed by a short descent before the final climb to Mark and Emma's first Munro, Carn Mor Dearg. The next section of the walk was the most difficult of the day as we descended to the arête. However my clients had no problems on this narrow ridge which took about 75 minutes to cross. It was mainly cloudy but we did get the occasional view into Coire Leis. This was followed by a steep and rocky ascent to the summit plateau of Ben Nevis where there were lots of people sitting and walking about in the cloud despite the fact that it was a week day. This was the first time we had seen anyone on the mountains, other than a couple who were lower down on Carn Dearg Meadhonach. We had lunch on the summit before Mark and Emma had a walk round looking at the small shelter and the remains of the observatory. Unfortunately the summit was a mess of litter, including the usual banana skins and even a whole banana so no wonder the local gull was going about. We also spotted a snow bunting searching between the rocks. After around three quarters of an hour on the summit we set off down the mountain path passing numerous walkers headed for the summit. Once below 550 metres the cloud broke and we had views into Glen Nevis. The path along the east side of Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe was under repair but I had already decided that we would continue down the mountain path so that my clients could have a view of the Glen Nevis camp site where they had stayed overnight. We eventually reached the Visitor Centre Car Park, and despite the mainly cloudy day, Mark and Emma appeared to enjoy their visit. Their next challenge was the drive home to England that evening.
Laggan Munros23 June 2006
It was an early start from the lay-by on the A86 Newtonmore to Spean Bridge Road just west of the west end of Loch Laggan where a bridge crosses the River Spean. I crossed this bridge and walked along Estate roads to Lochan na h-Earba. It was dry but the mountains were shrouded in cloud. From this lochan I followed the path along the east side of the Allt Coire Pitridh. This path has recently been upgraded as far as the junction of streams. I crossed the east most stream and continued along the path which was now rather wet and bogy in places. Further on, in low cloud, I commenced the ascent onto the east ridge of Beinn a'Chlachair. This route was pathless and involved crossing deep heather as well as going round some peat hags. I came across what I thought was a dead deer but the hind, which was obviously resting, became aware of my presence and ran off rather sharply. Unfortunately I missed a photo opportunity as I didn't think it was alive. This livened up my climb onto the ridge which is rather stony in places but I eventually reached the summit, took a few bearings and headed back along the east ridge. At the end of the ridge a steep descent took me towards the path that leads from Lochan na h-Earba to Loch Pattack. On approaching this stalker's path I came out of the cloud and had a view of Loch a'Bhealaich Leamhain and east to Lochs Pattack and Ericht where I had been the previous week. Now that I was out of the cloud and sheltered from the cold wind I stopped for a snack before continuing the descent to the stalker's path. Here I headed west for a short distance before using another stalker's path that took me to the bealach between Geal Charn and Creag Pitridh. I climbed Geal Charn engulfed by low cloud and on my return I disturbed a family of seven ptarmigan, twice. Once back at the bealach I climbed Creag Pitridh which just had a thin blanket of cloud covering the summit although it was threatening to rain. From the summit of Creag Pitridh I descended to the upgraded track beside the Allt Coire Pitridh and returned to the start. Unfortunately it rained for the last hour. On returning to the lay by there were a further five vehicles parked there but I only met one couple ascending Creag Pitridh from the Allt Coire Pitridh. |
