Caledonia Hilltreks mountain walks for loch maree to loch broom

Map - OS Landranger 19.

Time - 7.25 hours.

Distance - 18 kilometres.

Height climbed - 1250 metres.

This was the second visit to Slioch in under a week. On the first occasion the earlier low cloud lifted and it was rather warm work getting to the top. However on this trip it was windy and raining when we set off from the same car park and the low cloud was unlikely to clear.

The route of ascent was similar but not the weather. We had occasional rain showers with a strong wind so waterproofs were the order of the day. On entering Coire na Sleaghaich I had decided to stay in the corrie for as long as possible to try and avoid the wind on the ridge as I was aware that a walker’s path would take us onto the ridge beside the twin lochans. Once beyond the lochans it was windy as expected and the cloud base lowered and engulfed us. At a small knoll we spoke briefly to a chap who was on his way back down from the summit. Here the wind was at its strongest and it eased slightly as we headed for the trig point and onto the summit cairn which was slightly further north. The previous week at the summit I was bothered by the midges while having lunch, this week it was cold, windy and raining.

The cloud base did not lift and it was still fairly windy so we decided to return by the route of ascent. In fact we actually headed down into the corrie even earlier which got us out of the wind and cloud. Lower down we met two ladies who had set out at the same time as us that morning. They were setting up camp with the intention of tackling Slioch the next day. We passed two other backpackers who looked rather bedraggled near the bridge over the Abhainn an Fhasaigh.

Slioch

Munro

seventh ascent

981 metres.

previous ascent

Slioch

5 June 2008

Map - Landranger 19.

Time – 8 hours.

Distance - 19 kilometres.

Height climbed 1260 metres.

Kinlochewe is located on the A832 which runs from Auchnasheen to Gairloch. Just east of the village a narrow road leads to the hamlet of Incheril and the car park for the start of this ascent of Slioch. James and John were joined my Norman who is in the final throws of completing all the Munros.

Leaving the car park we passed through a wicket gate and followed a path north-west which eventually reached the Kinlochewe River and thereafter we mainly followed its east bank until it joined Loch Maree. The path then continued down the side of the loch, sometimes using its foreshore, to the Abhainn an Fhasaigh. Here a new bridge had been constructed over the stream but the complaint from one of the party jokingly was that the parapet hadn’t been sanded and he could get a splinter in his hand.

We followed the path up the north-west side of the Abhainn an Fhasaigh before climbing up to between Meall Each and Sgurr Dubh on a fairly eroded path. It was warm work and there was very little breeze. The earlier low cloud had lifted from most of the summits. Beyond this pass the path turned into Coire na Sleaghaich and crossed a boggy section but everything was very dry due to a fine spell of weather.

Once in the Coire there were a fair number of deer feeding but they weren’t that bothered about our presence. We then climbed out of the Coire to the bealach north-west of Sgurr Dubh, over a small knoll, and descended slightly to an unnamed lochan. This was followed by a fairly steep eroded path, well there were several, up to another knoll before an easier ascent to Slioch’s trig point. The highest point is apparently a few metres further north although my map shows then as the same height at 980 metres. As we headed towards the true summit we saw a couple of goats fighting.

I was hoping for a pleasant lunch break at the summit with views down Loch Maree and out towards the sea. The views were still awesome despite some light rain clouds circulating the area but the main problem was that it was calm and the midges were a nuisance. The tops of the Fisherfield Munros had some cloud cover so in the end it was rather disappointing.

After a shortened lunch break we headed along Slioch’s east ridge, disturbing the two goats we had seen earlier. The ridge narrowed slightly before we ascended the Munro Top, Sgurr an Tuill Bhain. From here we descended steeply down to Coire na Sleaghaich and returned to the start by the ascent route. Two ladies, who had left the car park at the same time as us, were setting up camp below the corrie with the intention of climbing Slioch the following day.

Norman was pleased that he had managed to bag another Munro but James was disappointed as it was the end of his three days in the Torridon area and the following day he had a 10 hour drive home . As for John he was wondering what was in store for him on the next day’s ascent of Liathach.

Slioch

Munro

sixth ascent

981 metres

previous ascent

Beinn Ghobhlach

14 February 2008

Time taken - 4.75 hours

Distance - 12 kilometres

Height climbed - 855 metres

The adventure started on the journey north-west from Inverness where there was low cloud with the temperature just above freezing point. On road north towards Ullapool I had the occasional glimpse of the sun drenched mountain tops, areas where the trees and vegetation where white after a hard frost, and an accident where a van had left the road presumably due to the icy road conditions.

On approaching Braemore Junction I had left the areas of low cloud behind and now had a great view of An Teallach with its patches of snow. At Braemore Junction I took the A832 to Gairloch as far as the junction just north of Corrie Haillie where I left the main road and drove along the narrow single track road towards Badrallach. The drive to say the least was interesting as it climbed below Beinn nam Ban and then down into the crofting community of Badrallach. At the end of the road there was a turning area with limited parking spaces.

I set off on the path that headed west along the north shore of Little Loch Broom to the crofting areas of Rireavach and Scoraig, which apparently has a population of around 80. This path is the only access to these hamlets other than by sea. There is no vehicle access.

It was a lovely sunny morning for a walk along this sea loch with Sail Mhor rising above the south side of the Loch. After around a kilometre and a half, at a point where I had my first view of the Scoraig peninsula, I left the path and climbed to the west of the rocky 338 point with views back to An Teallach and the Fannaichs. A slight descent took me to the west side of Loch na h-Uidhe before crossing to the foot of the south-west ridge of Beinn Ghobhlach.

The weather conditions were fantastic for a mid February day. It was fairly warm with a slight breeze and a few bits of high cloud. I have had colder days in summer so I was enjoying the day with the mountain to myself and views in all directions including over The Minch to the Outer Hebrides.

The next section of the ascent was a bit steeper with several rocky areas to be bypassed but I eventually arrived at the summit with its cairn and small shelter. The views were awesome. Beyond Sail Mhor and An Teallach to the south were the Fisherfield Munros and Torridon, and to the west and the Island of Skye. Across Loch Broom was Ben More Coigach, Ardmair Bay, Ben More Assynt, Conival. The mountains further east were shrouded in cloud. Down below me was Ullapool and beyond that the Ben Dearg Group of mountains. I couldn't have asked for better views.

I had lunch at the summit taking in these fantastic views and in fact lingered for a while noting the mountains I could see. I didn’t want to descend by the ascent route so I decided to walk round Coire Dearg. This was a wise decision as the views over the steep and rocky north ridge into Loch Broom and out over the Scoraig peninsula made it well worthwhile.

On reaching the end of the ridge I descended steeply into Coire Dearg and headed towards the path to Scoraig, latterly through long heather and around some rocks. Once back on the path I headed back to Badrallach, initially up and over a rocky section of the path before reaching the point I left earlier. Here I saw a walker away out in front and I followed him back to the start.

On the drive through Badrallach I stopped and gave this walker a lift. He was actually a resident of Scoraig and had left home an hour earlier so I was able to gleam some information about the Scoraig peninsula.

It had been a great mountain experience and one to cherish. I think it will have to be included in my top 10 walks. If anyone is looking for a hill to climb with some fantastic mountain and sea views this is the one but wait for a good day. If the weather is bad go elsewhere and come back on a fine sunny day.

Beinn Ghobhlach

Graham

first ascent

635 metres

Beinn Liath Mhor a’Ghiubhais Li

30 October 2007

Time taken - 3.75hours.

Distance - 9 kilometres.

Height climbed - 520 metres.

This Corbett is located south of the west end of Loch Glascarnoch on the A835 Inverness to Ullapool Road. There are parking facilities at the north-west side of the bridge over the Abhainn an Torrain Duibh beside a weather monitoring station.

I set off up the west side of the Abhainn an Torrain Duibh following at times a wet and boggy walker’s path. Beyond the Allt an Loch Sgeirich a bridge, not marked on my map but from a previous visit I was aware of, was crossed and the ascent of Beinn Liath Mhor a’Ghiubhais Li commenced. At first the vegetation was wet and boggy but higher up it was slightly better. Here some deer and a mountain hare were spotted. The hare tried to conceal itself but its white ears stuck up above the vegetation.

Near the summit the ground was a bit bouldery but there were no problems in reaching the summit where there were two cairns, one of which had been demolished. While at the summit it became engulfed by low cloud and then some light rain.

I descended south, initially walking round Alton Forest but I had to cross the deer fence to reach the main road and the short walk back to my car.

I sign indicated a route through Alton Forest which could have been used to ascend this mountain or the Fannaich Munros.

Beinn Liath Mhor a'Ghiubhais Li

Corbett

second ascent

766 metres

Slioch

12 September 2006

Slioch, pronounced shleeach, meaning the spear.

Time taken: 8.25 hours.

Distance: 19 kilometres.

Height climbed: 1000 metres.

It was a wet morning as we headed to Incheril, near Kinlochewe, the starting point for the ascent of Slioch. Here there is a public car park used by walkers and tourists. However by the time we started walking down the Kinlochewe River to Loch Maree it had stopped raining and the clouds were breaking up. The path was a bit wet and muddy as it's also used by the local sheep.

On reaching Loch Maree we followed the path along its east shore to the bridge over the Abhainn an Fhasaigh, which we crossed, and took the path up Gleann Bianasdail for a short distance. Thereafter we followed a walker's path into Coire na Sleaghaich where I expected to find some deer but there was none. It was the peak stag stalking season but I had already checked my route with the local stalker so I had no concerns about interfering with any stalking. From the Coire we climbed to the bealach north of Sgurr Dubh, passed one of the twin lochans and climbed steeply up a path which covered in loose rocks.

We then headed for the trig point, passing several feral goats en-route and then onto the true summit a few metres further north. It was now a lovely day with some wonderful views of Loch Maree and the surrounding mountains.

We had lunch at the summit looking at the fantastic scenery. Later we reluctantly left the summit and headed back to the car park at Incheril by the route of ascent. En route we were passed by an English Gent and his dog. My client asked him if he was a Munro Bagger and the man obviously didn't understand the question and replied 'no she's a Labrador' which I thought was rather funny.

Slioch Munro fifth ascent 981 metres

previous ascent

Sail Mhor

19 July 2006

previous ascent of this mountain

Sail Mhor, pronounced saal voar, meaning big heel.

Time taken - 3.75 hours.

Distance - 8 kilometres.

Height climbed - 750 metres.

The forecast was for a hot and sunny day with predicted temperatures around 28C in the North-West Highlands so I planned an early assault on Sail Mhor. However on the arrival at Ardessie near Camusnagaul it was hot and sunny with the temperature already at 24C.

I left the main road at Ardessie and followed a path up the east side of the Allt Airdeasaidh passed several waterfalls. Climbing up this path was horrendously hot with not even a slight breeze to cool me down and I lost a lot of sweat. Maybe I needed to loose a few pounds anyway.

Once above the waterfalls, and at a convenient spot, I crossed the Allt Airdeasaidh as a mountain blackbird flew off downstream. I then commenced the climb of Sail Mhor and aimed for south of the rocks but it was hard going in the heat. Around 500 metres there was an intermittent light and welcome breeze.

It was still tough going in the heat but I eventually reached the small knoll which was followed by the final short ascent to the summit of Sail Mhor. There were two cairns, the first was covered in flies so I continued to the second one and just beyond it I found a lovely spot for a cuppa looking over An Teallach, Fisherfield and Letterewe areas. I also could see the Scoraig peninsula with its small habitations across Loch Broom to the Summer Isles. There was a nice cooling breeze but the effort to climb this Corbett was well worth it for the views.

I later descended the south ridge of Sail Mhor to the Ruigh Mheallain bealach where I headed down the side of a stream to the Allt Airdeasaidh. At this point I saw two fellow walkers ascending Sail Mhor. They were the first walkers I had seen on any Corbett in four days, other than my client who had been with me for three of these days.

On reaching the Allt Airdeasaidh I followed a path, which was eroded in sections and in poor condition until I arrived at the point where I crossed the stream earlier that morning. I continued down the side of the stream and on arriving back at my vehicle I noted that the temperature was now 28C so I was glad to be out of the mid-day sun.

Sail Mhor Corbett second ascent 767 metres

Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill and Sgurr Fiona

3 July 2006

Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill, pronounced beedyan a ghlas hil, meaning top of the grey hollow.

Sgurr Fiona, pronounced skoor feeana, meaning white peak.

Time taken - 8.5 hours.

Distance - 12.5 kilometres.

Height climbed - 1450 metres.

Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill and Sgurr Fiona are the two Munros of An Teallach and can be combined with an ascent of the Pinnacles but my client just wished to ascend these two Munros by the easiest route.

Visibility on driving north to Dundonnell was very poor and on reaching the lay-by at the Mountain Rescue Post the cloud base was almost down to sea level. I located the start of the path and followed it uphill.

The path deviated from that shown on the map and reached a stream which it crossed before heading into the corrie and towards Sron a'Choire. Visibility was still poor as I navigated our way to the summit of Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill. Despite the cloud it was fairly humid and while on the summit we had a very brief glimpse of Sgurr Fiona before the thick mist returned.

We descended by the south ridge of Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill and climbed Sgurr Fiona before returning to Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill. We met a few other walkers on this section of the walk and on a couple of occasions it appeared that it may brighten up but it didn't happen and we were still in the cloud.

From the summit of Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill I navigated to the path marked on the map and followed it to Meall Garbh where the cloud started to break up and for the first time since we had set out we saw where we were going. The path, which seemed less used than the morning path, was in poor condition with several worn and gouged sections slowing our descent back to the start of the day's walk.

Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill Munro sixth ascent 1062 metres

Sgurr Fiona Munro sixth ascent 1060 metres

Fisherfield

5 - 8 June 2006

Beinn a'Chlaidheimh, pronounced byn a chyav, meaning hill of the sword.

Sgurr Ban, pronounced skoor baan, meaning pale coloured hill.

Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair, pronounced moolach kora veechk erachar, meaning peak of the corrie of Farquhar's son.

Beinn Tarsuinn, pronounced byn tarsyn, meaning transverse hill.

A'Mhaighdean, pronounced a vytyan, meaning the maiden.

Ruadh Stac Mor, pronounced rooagh stachk moar, meaning big red steep hill.

Day One:	Time taken - 4 hours.	Distance - 7 kilometres.	Height climbed - 370 metres.
Day Two:	Time taken - 15.5 hours.	Distance - 21.5 kilometres.	Height climbed - 1650 metres.
Day Three:	Time taken - 12.25 hours.	Distance - 23 kilometres.	Height climbed - 1065 metres.
Day Four:	Time taken - 3.75 hours.	Distance - 7 kilometres.	Height climbed - 310 metres.

Day One

It was mid-afternoon when we set off from Corrie Hallie on the A832 Braemore Junction to Dundonnell road and climbed through Gleann Chaorachain on a rough vehicle track. My client for the next four days was a lady of pension age who is in the latter stages of completing all the Munros. Unfortunately most of the ones she has left to climb are remote and require long walks in and out or backpacking trips similar to this one.

The lady had decided to stay at the bothy at Shenavall rather than camp as it meant she didn't have to carry a tent. Unfortunately she had a pack that wasn't comfortable and this meant frequent stops to try and adjust the sack which only seemed to help for a few minutes.

The track passed through some pleasant woodland before climbing steeply to its highest point. Here we left the track and followed a rough path below the south side of An Teallach with good views of its corries and pinnacles. We also had our first views of the Fisherfield Munros. The path became a bit more wet and boggy and we were overtaken by a group of walkers who were being guided by another hill walking company. One of their party took pity on my client and also tried to re-adjust her rucksack but to no avail. This group were planning to camp but further south.

The path, which is in a fairly poor state later descended fairly steeply to the bothy at Shenavall. Here my client managed to find an upstairs room to herself which she later called the 'penthouse suite'. There were four others staying in the bothy that night, one group which I never saw but I was told they returned from the hills around midnight. I spoke to another chap who was staying in the bothy who had managed the round of six Munros from Corrie Hallie in twelve hours and was intending walking back to Corrie Hallie in the morning over An Teallach.

I camped nearby together with a couple from Leeds who had arrived earlier that evening on an experimental backpacking trip. It was a pleasant evening viewing some of the hills that were to be climbed during the next couple of days, well that was until the wind dropped and the midges came out.

Day Two

It was just after six when we set off from Shenavall and walked down to the Abhainn Srath na Sealga. This river was fairly low and was easily forded in footwear that we had carried for this purpose. Once on the south side we put on our walking boots and headed across a very boggy area to the foot of the first Munro of the day Beinn a'Chlaidheimh. The ascent of this mountain involved a steep climb through heather, avoiding rocky outcrops, which my client didn't find enjoyable. She was also still having problems with her pack despite the lighter load.

It was a beautiful sunny morning with some fantastic views which can be seen from my photographs (see link). I insisted on a short break every hour to enable my client to eat and drink as it was going to be a long day and she needed all the reserves of energy she could muster.

Higher up there were traces of a path and we eventually reached the north ridge of Beinn a'Chlaidheimh and followed it over the 900 point to its summit where we had one of our hourly breaks taking in the mountain views. One Munro down three to go.

This was followed by a descent to the twin lochans beside Am Briseadh where we had another break and where we loaded up on some water. The next section of the walk, the ascent of the north-east ridge of Sgurr Ban, was very rocky so I tried to use some of the grassy terraces. As we commenced this climb we spotted a couple of hinds, the Leeds couple descending Beinn a'Chlaidheimh and the guided hill walking group at Loch a'Bhrisidh.

We reached the summit of Sgurr Ban and were joined by the Leeds couple before descending steeply down the south ridge and a steep ascent of Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair up a sree filled path. The summit of Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair was rather windy so we continued down its rocky south ridge, traversed below Meall Garbh to Bealach Odhar. After another one of our regular breaks we ascended the final Munro of the day Beinn Tarsuinn which was as far away from Shenavall as we were going to get that day.

The descent of Beinn Tarsuinn was by the north-west ridge, over a section that looked like Table Mountain. We followed this ridge before dropping to the bealach, avoided a steep gorge, and into Gleann na Muice. By this time the mountains were covered in cloud and it started to rain intermittently.

This was a very long walk out and my client was now very tired and her rucksack was still annoying her. Eventually we reached the path down the Glen and passed the route of the next day's walk up Gleann na Muice Beag where the other hill walking group were camped. At Larachantivore we crossed the Abhainn Gleann na Muice without the need to remove our boots as the river was low. The next section of the walk was across the very wet and boggy Strath na Sealga and we returned to the Abhainn Srath na Sealga where we changed our footwear for the river crossing. It was then a very short walk to the bothy at Shenavall, but by this time after over 15 hours out on the hills, my client was completely exhausted. At this time I doubted if she would make the following day's walk. It was the longest day walk she had every undertaken.

I had to ensure that she ate before going to her 'penthouse suite' as she needed to try and replace some of her lost energy.

Day Three

Looking out from my tent early in the morning the cloud was almost down as far as the Loch so I decided against getting up at that time. Half an hour later the cloud was breaking up and I could see part of the hillside so it was time to get up and have breakfast. I was very surprised to find that my client was bright and breezy and raring to tackle the final two Munros of this backpacking trip.

We set off around 7.30am and retraced the final section of the previous day's walk as far as Gleann na Muice Beag and took the good quality path up this Glen. It later climbed steeply before easing considerably as it crossed some heathery and boggy ground. We were now in very remote country miles from any habitation. The path traversed round the north side of the double Lochan Feith Mhi'-illean before heading south towards Fuar Loch Mor.

As we progressed our way up this path, watched by several deer hinds, the cloud was breaking up and we entered some really spectacular scenery. The condition of the path deteriorated the higher we reached but it was still in reasonable condition and near the bealach between Ruadh Stac Mor and A'Mhaighdean it consisted of slab rock.

Once at the bealach we set off for A'Mhaighdean with views back down our ascent route to the Fuar Loch Mor and on the other side to some of the Munros we had climbed the previous day.

We climbed onto A'Mhaighdean's south ridge where we stopped and spoke to the other hill walking group who were all enjoying the sun that now engulfed the mountains. A final short walk took us to the summit of A'Mhaighdean and the awesome views out over the Dubh and Fionn Lochs to the Sea of the Hebrides. This in my opinion is one of the best views from any mountain in Scotland and my client agreed.

Lunch was taken at the summit taking in the views before reluctantly leaving the summit and returning to the bealach. En-route we met some other walkers, who had possibly come in from Poolewe in a long day walk. We also saw the Leeds couple we were heading up onto this wonderful mountain summit.

The next section had been worrying my client since she first saw it, the ascent of Ruadh Stac Mor. It involved climbing through a rock face before reaching a boulder field. My client was very nervous so I had to talk her through the rock face and onto the easier boulder field. From there we worked our way to the summit trig point where we had another break.

In earlier days I used to return to the bealach and follow the route we ascended that morning but more recently I have descended Ruadh Stac Mor by its south ridge before dropping to Lochan a'Bhraghad being careful to avoid several rocky outcrops which are not shown on the map. This is what we did on this occasion and my client was pleased as she didn't fancy the descent to the bealach through the rocks.

On the descent we were again watched by some hinds before we reached the south side of Loch a' Bhraghad and followed the outflow until it changed direction. From here we climbed onto the path we used earlier that day and followed it back down Gleann na Muice Beag and into Gleann na Muice. The route back to Shenavall was then the same as the previous day but at least on this occasion my client wasn't as exhausted.

We reached Shenavall for a well earned rest and meal some 12 hours after setting out.

Day Four

The final day was the walk out from Shenavall to Corrie Hallie, a reverse of day one.

We set off from Shenavall and the steep climb out of Strath na Sealga. The client's laden pack was still causing her problems and was slowing her down. It took a long time to reach the vehicle track and despite the final section being downhill she was struggling which was understandable after such a tough couple of days.

Eventually we reached Corrie Hallie and the end of the walk.

Conclusion

I have completed these six Munros on a single round, once from Corrie Hallie going as light as possible, and on other occasions from Shenavall. On this occasion, splitting the six Munros into two days allowed me more time to see the scenery around A'Mhaighdean and Ruadh Stac Mor and I probably enjoyed the walk more as I wasn't rushing to complete all six Munros.

If you have the time don't rush these mountains take an extra day and enjoy them.

Beinn a'Chlaidheimh Munro sixth ascent 916 metres

Sgurr Ban Munro sixth ascent 989 metres

Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair Munro sixth ascent 1019 metres

Beinn Tarsuinn Munro sixth ascent 937 metres

A'Mhaighdean Munro sixth ascent 967 metres

Ruadh Stac Mor Munro sixth ascent 918 metres

Fionn Bheinn

28 May 2006

Fionn Bheinn, pronounced fyown vyn, meaning light coloured hill.

Time taken - 5 hours.

Distance - 10 kilometres.

Height climbed - 780 metres.

The plan was to climb the two Munros on Beinn Eighe but with a forecast indicating white out conditions for an hour or so we decided to go to Fionn Bheinn instead. My clients did some preparatory work the evening before by devising a route plan.

We drove to Achnasheen and parked in the village car park before crossing the main road, A832, walked passed farm buildings and followed the east side of the Allt Achadh na Sine until we climbed onto Creagan nan Laogh. It was cold and windy but the summit top was still clear. However we stuck to the route plan and headed to the bealach east of Fionn Bheinn as the cloud began to engulf the tops. The ridge edge was then followed to the summit trig point which was by this time in cloud.

We returned to the bealach and navigated our way off the hill eventually coming out of the cloud. We then found a sheltered spot for lunch before heading back to Achnasheen.

Fionn Bheinn Munro fifth ascent 933 metres

Fannaich Weekend

4 - 5 February 2006

previous ascents of A'Chailleach and Sgurr Breac

Meall a'Chrasgaidh, pronounced myowl a chraskee, meaning round hill of the crossing.

Sgurr nan Clach Geala, pronounced skoor nan klach geeala, meaning rocky peak of the white stone.

Sgurr nan Each, pronounced skoor nan yaach, meaning rocky peak of the horse.

A'Chailleach, pronounced a chalyach, meaning the old woman.

Sgurr Breac, pronounced skoor brechk,meaning rocky speckled peak.

Day One:	Time taken - 8 hours.	Distance - 19.5 kilometres.	Height climbed - 1070 meters.
Day Two:	Time taken - 7.75 hours.	Distance - 19 kilometres.	Height climbed - 1050 metres.

I met my clients at Braemore Junction on the A835 Inverness to Ullapool road and we drove the few miles west on the A832 to a small layby near the access track to Loch a'Bhraoin. We followed this track to the partially frozen loch and crossed the footbridge at its outflow. It was a reasonably pleasant morning at this time, as can be seen from the photographs.

A stalker's path heads south from this point but it involves a river crossing so we took the diversionary route to a newish bridge that crossed the Allt Breabaig lower down and followed a boggy track on the east side of the river. We didn't remain on this track for long before commencing the climb of Meall a'Chrasgaidh. The ascent at this point is fairly steady over some rough and rocky terrain. Higher up it levelled out slightly but here we were engulfed by low cloud which was being blown in on the wind.

The summit cairn was reached and we were joined by two other walkers who were on a nearby slightly lower cairn until they heard our voices. After speaking to them for a few moments we descended to the wide bealach and climbed onto the north-east ridge of Sgurr nan Clach Geala where we spotted a couple of ptarmigan who stood out it their white feathers in the snowless terrain.

On approaching the summit of Sgurr nan Clach Geala the cloud broke up and we had some good views on the final approach to the summit cairn, which lies just beyond the remnants of a trig point. Unfortunately the cloud hadn't cleared completely and was covering the south ridge as we made our descent to another bealach before the climb to the final Munro of the day, Sgurr nan Each, where I spotted a couple of ptarmigan lying on remnants of a small cornice. One slid off the patch of snow before they flew off.

From Sgurr nan Each we returned to the bealach and descended to the stalker's path at the head of the Allt Breabaig and the long walk back to the start.

Sunday's start was the same as Saturdays but unfortunately one of my clients was feeling unwell so he and his wife decided to head for home and miss the windy conditions we were later to encounter.

The remaining clients wished the shortest approach to the summits, so we headed back to the stalker's path which we used on the descent the previous day, but before the crossing of the Allt Breabaig we headed steeply up the Leitir Fhearna onto the Druim Reidh ridge which gave pleasant walking, except for the strong wind, and onto the Munro Top, Toman Coinnich.

The plan was to then go out to Sgurr Breac before returning and climbing A'Chailleach and descending by Sron na Goibhre to Loch a'Bhraoin. However the wind was very strong at this time so, after consultation with the clients. we descended to the bealach and climbed to the summit of A'Chailleach and returned to the bealach. It was very windy on the ridge with poor visibility due to low cloud.

Once back at the bealach we traversed round the south side of Toman Coinnich and climbed to the summit of the final Munro of the weekend, Sgurr Breac. There were still no views until we were well down its east ridge which led to the head of the Allt Breabaig. We followed the stalkers' path we had used the previous day back to the start and the end of the weekend's Munro bagging.

Meall a'Chrasgaidh Munro fourth ascent 934 metres

Sgurr nan Clach Geala Munro fourth ascent 1093 metres

Sgurr nan Each Munro fourth ascent 923 metres

A'Chailleach Munro fifth ascent 997 metres

Sgurr Breac Munro fifth ascent 999 metres

An Teallach

9 September 2005

Some months ago I was asked by a senior partner in an Edinburgh solicitors firm if I would be prepared to guide some of his clients for two days walking in the Ullapool area. One of the days planned was to be An Teallach.

A few days before this walk the weather forecast was showing snow above 1200 metres, with strong winds and a wind chill into the wind of -14C. This was of concern to me as the wind was too strong to risk taking clients on the An Teallach ridge. However this forecast did not materialise and changed to a more seasonal forecast.

I met my clients at Braemore Junction, south of Ullapool and we drove to Corrie Hallie near Dundonnell, which was the start of the walk. We set off up the track in Gleann Chaorachain with one of the guys setting a cracking pace. I later learned that he was in training for a trip across the Sahara Desert in a few weeks time.

At the high point on this track we took the path that leads to Shenavall bothy and followed it to the crossing of the stream that flows out of Lochan na Brathan. This was the start of a steady climb through rock, heather and some bog to the summit of Sail Liath, a Munro Top. It was mainly clear with some good views of the pinnacles of An Teallach, although there was a cold wind blowing.

One of the party decided not to continue and returned to Corrie Hallie. The others descended to a bealach before climbing to the top of Stob Cadha Gobhlach followed by another descent before the Corrag Bhuidhe Buttress was approached.

This is where the scrambling started but we avoided the climb up the buttress by climbing round it's side where we had a slight problem getting over and round a rocky section but we eventually reached the first pinnacle. My clients were coping well with the exposure and scrambling with Colin, the chap bound for the Sahara, appearing to be in his element.

The scrambling continued as we took in all the pinnacles followed by Lord Berkley's Seat. Once at the bealach beyond this Munro Top my clients were able to look back and see how impressive Lord Berkley's Seat was with its sheer drop and how it leaned outwards.

This was the end of the scrambling and we headed to the summit of the first Munro of the day, Sgurr Fiona. This was Shona'a 142nd Munro, half way round completing all 284 Munros, while this was Colin's first. We were also able to spend time taking in all the views including out over the Sea of the Hebrides.

A drop to a bealach followed, before the climb to the second Munro, Bidean a'Ghlas Thuill. This was followed by a rocky descent to a bealach where Colin and Alan decided to climb the Munro Top, Glas Mheall Mor. They set off at 'race' pace to this summit and joined us lower down the glen.

The rest of the group descended into Glas Tholl, steeply at first before picking up a path just below the bealach. This path, which was muddy and boggy in places, passed numerous small waterfalls. The bottom section of the path uses large rocks as the route before reaching the final obstacle, rhododendron bushes which required to be negotiated before reaching the main road just north of the starting point.

My clients then headed for the Dundonnell Hotel for a well earned drink.

Sgurr Fiona Munro fifth ascent 1060 metres

Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill Munro fifth ascent 1062 metres

The Westerly Fannaichs

9 July 2005

We set off from Ullapool in what I expected to be a warm and sunny day. The Beinn Dearg group of mountains, which are visible from Ullapool, were clear of cloud. We headed south to Braemore junction on the A835 Inverness to Ullapool Road and then west on the A832 Gairloch road to a lay by north of Loch a'Bhraoin. Although we were early the lay by already had about half a dozen cars parked there.

We set off down the track to Loch a 'Bhraoin where a father and son were camped and were participating in an early morning fishing adventure.

The footbridge at the end of the Loch was crossed with care as a couple of the wooden spars were rotten and had collapsed. I hope the Estate is going to repair this bridge in time as crossing the river in spate conditions may be impossible. This route is part of a 'Right of Way' to Lochluichart.

Once over this bridge we headed south along the path on the west side of the Allt Breabaig and later forded this stream. There was a sign further north indicating a route to a footbridge to cross this river but the river was fairly low and easily crossed.

Once on the east side of the Allt Breabaig the path climbed a bit before we continued south up Glen Breabaig. The surrounding mountains were covered in cloud with the base around 600 metres. However it was warm in the Glen.

On approaching the bealach and the descent to Loch Fannaich we met a chap who was undecided in his plans for the day. He wanted to know the forecast and appeared to be in doubt as to his ability to cope with the low cloud. He obviously lacked the skills that were required to leave the path and climb any of the surrounding mountains. In my opinion he sensibly decided to retreat back down the path to the start rather than venture into a situation he couldn't cope with.

Once at the bealach we climbed, fairly steeply initially, into the cloud, where it was colder with a fairly brisk wind. We donned more clothing before heading to the summit of Sgurr Breac. From there we descended to a bealach and climbed the Munro Top, Toman Coinnich. This was followed by a drop to another bealach where we met a lone walker who was climbing these mountains in the opposite direction. From this bealach we climbed to the summit of our second Munro of the day, A'Chailleach. This was my clients last Fannaich Munro and she now has only 60 Munros left to climb.

We didn't stay long on the summit of A'Chailleach as it was cold and windy so we descended north and found some shelter for lunch. While sitting there the cloud attempted to break up and we had a few glimpses of An Teallach before it was shrouded in cloud again. However it appeared that we were just in the wrong place as the Beinn Dearg group of mountains still appeared devoid of cloud and probably were all day.

Once lunch was over we continued our descent over Sron na Goibhre and headed down to the stream flowing out of Loch Toll an Lochain, following this stream for a short distance, before cutting across some rough ground towards the bridge at the east end of Loch a'Bhraoin. This was a slow process but we eventually reached the footbridge and followed the track back to the start of the walk and the end of three day's walking in the North of Scotland.

Sgurr Breac Munro fourth ascent 999 metres

A'Chailleach Munro fourth ascent 997 metres

previous ascents of these mountains

Fannaichs

25 May 2005

Today's client wanted to climb the Munros Meall Gorm and An Coileachan which had been missed out on her last trip with another guide due to injury.

In light drizzle we set off from the car park just north of Loch Glascarnoch on the A835 Inverness to Ullapool Road and followed traces of a path on the north bank of the Abhainn an Torrain Duibh, which after a couple of kilometres becomes the Abhainn a'Ghiuthais Li.

A short distance up the Abhainn a'Ghiuthais Li we came across a new bridge which I decided to cross as I was concerned that the old bridge, not marked on the map, had possibly been damaged in the winter storms. However this was a mistake as the going on the south side of this river was torturous over very rough and boggy ground which made progress very slow. One positive fact was that the drizzle had ceased and it appeared that the cloud was trying to break up as we had brief glimpses of the lower sections of the Fannaichs.

Another reason for it being a mistake was that when I came to the old bridge I found that it had recently been replaced and we could have therefore made better progress by continuing up the north bank of the river. These bridges are obviously not for the benefit of hill walkers but for Estate vehicles during the deer cull, but are very welcome. I would suggest that if following this route don't cross the river till you reach the second bridge.

Once passed the second bridge we continued up the south side of the Abhainn a'Ghiuthais Li before climbing up to Loch Odhar and round Loch Gorm to the Meallan Buidhe - An Coileachan Bealach. This was to avoid the climb over Meallan Buidhe but it was rough going and I am not sure if was of any benefit.

The cloud base had by this time lowered and we were unable to see the hillside so the climb up the north side of An Coileachan was in poor visibility and light rain. After a steady pull we reached the summit cairn of An Coileachan where it was cold and wet so we set off for the Bealach Ban over some rocky terrain.

The Bealach Ban, which according to the map was fairly wide, but we saw very little of it in these poor conditions. A steady climb followed to Meall Gorm's South-East Top, then a reasonably level walk to the actual summit of Meall Gorm, face into the wind and rain.

We returned to some old stone built shelters where we stopped for lunch before heading back over Meall Gorm's South-East Top and to the Bealach Ban. From there we descended out of the cloud and rain to Loch nan Eun and round its south side. Once again the terrain was difficult and in hindsight I should have probably gone over Meallan Buidhe.

From Loch nan Eun we traversed round the east ridge of Meallan Buidhe and headed for the first bridge on the Abhainn a'Ghiuthais Li. The terrain here wasn't as bad but we had to avoid sections of bog. We disturbed a large herd of deer but as I descended towards a burn crossing I came very close to a lone deer whose head was down eating furiously and hadn't noticed the rest of the herd run off. It got quiet a scare when it saw me and quickly darted off. A good job it wasn't the stalking season!

This was followed by a slight ascent before descending to the bridge and the river crossing. Thereafter we retraced our outward route as the rain started again.

An Coileachan Munro fifth ascent 923 metres

Meall Gorm Munro fifth ascent 949 metres

Fisherfield Six

13 - 15 May 2005

The Fisherfield Six, as I call them. are a group of six Munros, within the area known as the Fisherfield Forest. They are remote mountains with A'Mhaighdean one of the remotest Munros.

To climb these Munros requires either several long walks in or a backpacking trip. I favour the backpacking trip, either staying in the bothy at Shenavall or camping nearby and tackling all six mountains in a very, very long day. So this was the plan for two clients this weekend.

On the Friday afternoon I was uplifted from Inverness and driven to Corrie Hallie, near Dundonnell, which was the starting point for this adventure.

Once we were laden with our rucksacks and camping gear, and I mustn't forget Frances's little red bag containing her food, we set off up Gleann Chaorachain. This was a steady climb and we met several people returning from their day's walking. By the time we reached the crossing of the Allt Gleann Chaorachain Frances was complaining about not taking her larger sack as she found carrying this plastic bag rather awkward and sweaty, as the late afternoon sun shone heating up the glen. This brought back memories of my last visit to this area when the client carried some of her gear in a black bin liner. I'm sure neither lady will fall into this trap again.

Once across the Allt Gleann Chaorachain the track climbed steeply till it reached the path that we required to take to reach Shenavall. The path was fairly dry and most of the boggy sections were avoidable. The final half hour was downhill to the bothy at Shenavall where we set up our tents.

The next morning I was up before five to prepare for the long day in front of us. It had been a cold night with some frost and Frances said she had been cold throughout the night.

At 6.20am we set off for the short walk down to the Abhainn Srath na Sealga where it was noticeably colder. The crossing of the river wasn't difficult and we headed across the Strath na Sealga which was wet and boggy in several places, before commencing the climb of our first Munro, Beinn a'Chlaidheimh. This was a steep climb searching for the easiest route through rocks and rough terrain. The sun was shining so it looked like we would be fortunate in the choice of dates for this visit.

It took us a couple of hours to reach the north ridge of this mountain and the final climb to the summit. There was a cool wind blowing on the summit ridge but it was ideal for walking.

Once we had a second breakfast we set off down the south ridge of Beinn a'Chlaidheimh to the two small lochans beside Am Briseadh where we loaded up with water. Andy, my other client, took on four litres of water, no wonder he required a large sack. I have never seen anyone drink so much water on a day walk in Scotland.

From the lochans we headed up the rocky ridge of Sgurr Ban with several large patches of snow. On this summit we had another break while taking in the surrounding views of the numerous mountains, too many to count or name.

Once fed and watered we dropped to the Sgurr Ban/Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair bealach before the steep climb through scree, some snow, and loose earth to the summit of Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair. We were now half way through bagging the six Munros but a long way from the end of the walking day.

There was no break on this summit and we descended steeply down through rocks and snow before taking the path below Meall Garbh to the Bealach Odhar and the climb to the fourth Munro Beinn Tarsuinn where we had lunch. We had good views of Slioch, the Torridon mountains and we could see out to Skye and the Western Isles and that was only looking westwards. This was roughly our half way point in our walk and we were a long way from our tents.

During the afternoon the sun disappeared and was replaced by a thin veil of cloud and the wind was still cold .

We walked along the narrowing north ridge of Beinn Tarsuinn, where there is a large level area like a table top, before descending steeply to the level area between Beinn Tarsuinn and our next Munro A'Mhaighdean. On the descent we came across a couple of ptarmigan and we also topped up with some more water. The walk across this level area requires a lot of twisting and turning to avoid bogs and peat hags so we were pleased when we reached the other side.

The long pull up the mainly grassy ridge of A'Mhaighdean took its toll on my clients who were now feeling the effects of their long day. However I had already told them of the spectacular views once at the summit. Although it was cold on the top they were not disappointed. The views, in my opinion are probably the best from any mountain in Scotland, with its 3,000 feet drop to the Dubh and Fionn Lochs and the view out to the Sea of the Hebrides and the Western Isles. Spectacular, but only for the hardened hill walker as the area is so remote.

We sat here for a while and had something to eat before commencing the descent of A'Mhaighdean where we saw a leveret, which hid under a large rock. We also got very close to a ptarmigan which was perched on the edge of a large rock.

The final Munro was Ruadh Stac Mor, which is very rocky on its west side, However Andy preferred this to the grassy A'Mhaighdean and was soon heading for the summit. After a brief stop on our final Munro we headed along the ridge, down to Lochan a'Bhraghad and to the Gleann na Muice Beag track where we disturbed a large herd of deer.

It was a long walk back down this glen and then Gleann na Muice with a couple of rest stops. My clients found a suitable crossing point of the Abhainn Gleann na Muice before we headed over the wet and boggy Strath na Sealga where Frances ended up deep in a bog. I also went into a boggy section but at least it wasn't over my boots. I think we were distracted by the awesome sun set with the sky and mountains around us a bright red colour.

Once over this Strath we re-crossed the Abhainn Srath na Sealga at the location we had crossed nearly sixteen hours earlier and headed up to our tents. It was just after 10pm.

I retired to my tent but I think my clients still had some energy left to converse with the residents in the bothy and cook their evening meal.

The next day was a long lie till 7.30am when we rose and had a leisurely breakfast. The mountain tops were covered in cloud so we had been lucky as the day before all the mountains were clear of cloud all day.

Just after 9am we set off back up the path to Gleann Chaorachain and a slow plod back to Corrie Hallie and the end of a tough weekend.

Beinn a'Chlaidheimh Munro fifth ascent 916 metres

Sgurr Ban Munro fifth ascent 989 metres

Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair Munro fifth ascent 1018 metres

Beinn Tarsuinn Munro fifth ascent 937 metres

A'Mhaighdean Munro fifth ascent 967 metres

Ruadh Stac Mor Munro fifth ascent 918 metres

A Kinlochewe Graham

16 March 2005

It had been a wet and windy morning but I was determined not to sit about all day looking out the window at Beinn Eighe, so after lunch I drove to Incheril, just south of Kinlochewe and parked in the car park there.

I set off down the wet and muddy path which runs along the east shore of the Kinlochewe River. The river was in spate and there was some flooding in places. However the weather was mainly dry at this time and I was relatively sheltered from the wind. It was obvious it was windy higher up as water from the swollen streams was being blown back up the hillside.

I followed this path almost as far as Loch Maree before climbing towards a waterfall. Here I disturbed several deer sheltering from the wind. As I approached the waterfall I was searching for a route through the wet rocks and disturbed more deer which were unable to cross the gorge and had to climb higher up to get away from me. At least I knew there was a possible route through the rocks.

A scramble through the slippery rocks took me to higher ground. When I looked back I saw water from the stream being blown skywards like smoke from a chimney.

I was using several of the small lochans as navigation aids and beside one of these lochans I came very close to a mature stag with his head down feeding away. It took him several minutes to note my presence before he took off.

The final climb to the first cairn of Beinn a'Mhuinidh was a bit steeper with some patches of wet snow which I was able to avoid before climbing through some rocks. The final stretch to the true summit was across some undulating ground. Here it was rather windy but I still managed a quick look around to view the cloud topped mountains of Fisherfield, Slioch and Torridon.

My planned descent was to take the easier angled route to the south with its many lochans and temporary streams caused by the heavy rain and snow melt. On the descent it started to rain and it progressively got heavier as I progressed across some rough ground.

My return took me down to the track between the Heights of Kinlochewe and Incheril which runs along the side of the Abhainn Bruachaig. This river was rather wild due to the volume of water. My return to Incheril was in heavy rain and the semi-dark. However it had been an enjoyable walk despite the weather conditions during the second half.

Beinn a'Mhuinidh Graham first ascent 692 metres

previous visit to this mountain

Return to Letterewe

13 March 2005

The plan was to take clients into the remote Letterewe area, which together with Fisherfield to the east, combines to make a large wilderness area in the north-west of Scotland.

The drive to Poolewe, the starting point for the walk, was along ice and snow covered roads. We parked in the car park beside the bridge over the River Ewe and followed the track along the east side of the River past Inveran to Loch an Doire Ghairbh.

Beyond this Loch a path, which is not marked on the map, cuts across the hillside to join the Kernsary to Ardlair track. The start of the path is obvious but deteriorates as you climb up over a rise and is boggy and undistinguishable at the far end. Once on this path the first snow shower of the day struck. Fortunately the wind and snow were on our backs so it didn't hamper our progress too much, just curtailed our visibility.

Once the snow shower cleared the sun appeared as we walked along the track towards Ardlair so we took this opportunity to stop for a break. Thereafter the walk continued along this track until an old sheep fank was reached, where a path leads up the mountain to below Spidean nan Clach.

The path was covered in snow and in places some ice, so care was required. As we gained height the path was difficult to locate in the snow. However as it follows a stream that flows down from the col between Spidean nan Clach and Meal Chnaimhean it wasn't too difficult to work out where it should be found, even during the occasional snow shower. A large herd of deer watched us as we progressed towards the col.

The climb, from just below the col became a bit steeper with a greater depth of snow and more icy patches. The gradient eased before a final steeper climb to the summit trig point of Beinn Airigh Charr. The weather had by this time deteriorated with low cloud, a strong wind and it started to snow again so visibility was fairly poor.

On reaching the summit there was no point in hanging about as there was nothing to see so we headed back towards the col and sought some shelter behind some rocks for lunch.

We then resumed our descent and the low cloud cleared. It was a fairly lengthy walk back to the Kernsary to Ardlair track but quite pleasant sliding about in the snow.

We took the short cut across the hillside towards Loch an Doire Ghairbh and then the track back to Poolewe and the end of a long day.

As expected in this remote part of Scotland and in these winter conditions we never came across any other walkers and there was no evidence anyone else had been out on theses hills that day.

Beinn Airigh Charr Corbett second ascent 791 metres

Fisherfield

28 November 2004

On a previous visit to the Fisherfield area to climb the Corbett, Beinn a'Chaisgein Mor, (see below) I thought it looked possible to climb the two Beinn Dearg Corbetts from the north. Reference books indicate an approach from the east but this requires two river crossings on the way in and also on the way back. A well known climber, whom I know, who has written route plans for some of the northern Corbetts, was able to confirm that he had climbed these hills from the north.

I left my car at Gruinard on the A832 between Dundonnell and Poolewe. At this time it was just turning daylight so I was able to see the track as I cycled south on the west side of the Gruinard River.

An hour later I arrived at the end of the track at the north-west end of Loch na Sealga where I left my cycle. The building shown on the Ordnance Survey Map no longer exists although there are two secure small containers there along with three boats which the Estate obviously use to access the remoter parts of their land.

The walk commenced along the south shore of Loch na Sealga before making a gradual ascent, initially over rough and wet ground to below the north ridge of Beinn Dearg Bheag in occasional snow showers and disturbing lots of deer feeding in the area.

A steep climb followed, avoiding rocky outcrops, until I reached the snow level at 700 metres. The ridge began to narrow and became more rocky. Extreme care was required as the rocks were covered in snow and ice which slowed progress. However this wasn't a problem to the ptarmigan who were at home in their winter plumage camouflaged by the snow.

On several occasions I had to drop off the ridge for short stretches to traverse round steep rock. This reminded me of An Teallach which I could see on the other side of Loch na Sealga. After several ups and downs and negotiating narrow sections of the ridge I eventually reached the summit of Beinn Dearg Bheag which was at this time clear of cloud.

I descended the stony and snow covered south ridge to the bealach which was clear of snow but this was short lived. As I commenced the final climb of the day the cloud lowered and the snow started to fall again. This steep climb through more stony, snow covered ground took me onto the ridge of Beinn Dearg Mor. This ridge is about 90 metres higher than Beinn Dearg Bheag and had a significant covering of snow. In fact it was knee deep as I approached the summit cairn. The cloud didn't break completely but it was obvious to me that there were sheer drops on either side.

I remained at the cairn in the hope that the cloud would lift but to no avail so I headed back towards the bealach. As was my luck, once half way down, the cloud cleared and shortly thereafter the sun came out so this was a good opportunity to stop for a late lunch. I sat, sheltered from the cool breeze, enjoying the sun and taking in the views towards the snow covered mountains of Torridon. However I couldn't remain there for long as I only had a few hours of daylight left and a long walk back to my cycle.

Once l had eaten my lunch I continued to the bealach and then steeply down to Loch Toll an Lochain avoiding the rocks. I went round the west side of the Loch which was sandy in places before crossing over the east ridge of Beinn Dearg Bheag. This traverse was over awkward and wet ground and it was a relief when I came across some heathery terrain which allowed me to make quicker progress. However lower down the terrain was once again wet and difficult to cross.

It was almost dark when I reached the shores of Loch na Sealga and as was the case with Ben Aden a few weeks earlier it was difficult to make out the water's edge. However I wasn't too bothered as my feet were wet from all the boggy and snow covered ground that I had crossed during the day.

On reaching the north-west end of the Loch I collected my cycle and commenced the long cycle back to my car. Initially I cycled without using my head torch but after a while it became difficult to see the boulders etc so I had to switch it on. Progress was slow at times especially when the track came close to the fast flowing Gruinard River but I successfully made it back to my car nearly ten hours after I had set out.

Once I had recovered I realised that it had been a successful outing as I had reduced my tally of four Corbetts left to climb to two.

Beinn Dearg Bheag Corbett first ascent 820 metres

Beinn Dearg Mor Corbett first ascent 910 metres

Fisherfield

24 October 2004

I was down to single figures in my quest to climb all the 219 Corbetts, mountains between 2,500 and 3,000 feet with a drop on all sides of 500 feet. Some state that there are 220 Corbetts but two of these Corbetts are on the same ridge, are given the same height, and do not appear to have the required drop between them. Obviously this is open to some debate.

On this Sunday morning I set off on my mountain bike from the A832 at Gruinard, located between Dundonnell and Poolewe. I followed the track south on the west bank of the Gruinard River, through a herd of cattle that had, in places, churned up the track. Further on I disturbed some deer and a few decided to swim the River which was in spate. The stags had survived the cull which finished on the twentieth but now it was the turn of the hinds. However as it was Sunday there was no stalking.

After nearly an hour of cycling, well I did push my bike on the uphill sections, I reached the Allt Loch Ghiubhsachain where I left my bike. I was pleased to see that there was a concrete bridge across the burn. Once on the west bank I walked up the side of the Allt. It was a bit wet and boggy in places but on reaching steeper ground the conditions improved.

Once higher up I had to re-cross the Allt Loch Ghiubhsachain and follow a small stream south-westwards towards more wet and boggy ground. From here I located a stalker's path, which was obviously little used, and followed it in a similar direction as it climbed then dropped to cross the Uisge Toll a'Mhadaidh. I could hear the stags in the area of Corrie Toll a'Mhadaidh roaring as the rut was in progress.

I followed this path as it climbed to the bealach south of Beinn a'Chaisgein Beag before climbing to its summit cairn and trig point. The weather had been fairly pleasant during my approach but on reaching the bealach the wind increased and low cloud spread in with spots of rain.

Fortunately the rain didn't materialise at this time and the cloud lifted slightly as I returned to the bealach and the long walk up the south ridge of Bidean a'Chaisgein Mor to its summit. As I approached, a large number of ptarmigan flew off and fought against the wind. Winter is obviously on its way as the ptarmigan's plumage was turning white.

It had taken me nearly five hours to reach this point and with the weather conditions about to deteriorate I had my lunch sheltering behind some rocks looking down on the Fionn Loch and the Corbetts beyond.

As the rain started I set off for my return to the bealach and the stalker's path leading me back towards my bike. Unfortunately I got a wet leg re-crossing the swollen Allt Loch Ghiubhsachain but by this time the rain was fairly heavy so it was really immaterial that one leg and boot was soaking.

On reaching the track beside the Gruinard River I collected my bike and cycled back to the start rather wet. Despite the weather it was a pleasant walk and cycle and once again I never met anyone else on a Corbett expedition. It was an interesting approach to this Corbett and avoided two river crossings (twice) and possibly an overnight stay at Shenavall bothy. It also gave me a different perspective of this remote area.

Beinn a'Chaisgein Beag Graham first ascent 680 metres

Beinn a'Chaisgein Mor Corbett first ascent 856 metres

Letterewe

11 September 2004

It was still dark as I arrived at Poolewe for my day's walk in the Letterewe Forest area of what is commonly known as "The Great Wilderness".

I set off in the semi-darkness and cycled along the track to Kernsary where I left my cycle. I continued east through a forest and walked along the path to Fionn Loch a distance of about 5 miles in heavy rain with low cloud shrouding the hills. It was initially a pretty miserable walk but my sights were set on at least climbing the distant Corbett Beinn Lair.

On approaching the Fionn Loch with views of the Causeway across to Carnmore the rain ceased, the cloud base started to rise and the day looked more promising. I stopped to take on some food before commencing the climb of the stalker's path to Bealach Mheinnidh. At its highest point I turned east and headed for Beinn Lair. Just short of the summit there is a cairn where I had fine views of A'Mhaighdean and some of the other Fisherfield mountains. There was also good views of An Teallach and back towards Poolewe and Gairloch. I continued onto the summit of Beinn Lair where I had views of Slioch.

I returned to Bealach Mheinnidh and climbed the Graham, Meall Mheinnidh. The wind had picked up and was fairly strong on the summit but fortunately there were numerous large rocks for me to shelter behind for my second break of the day.

The descent off Meall Mheinnidh is more difficult than the map shows as there is a lot of rock so the drop to Srathan Buidhe took longer than I expected. Near the high point here three Highland cows, who were feeding in the glen, were surprised by my sudden appearance and watched me as I headed up Beinn Airigh Charr. This was a fairly easy walk up its south-east ridge and higher up I surprised some deer feeding in one of the hollows. The wind was now very strong and it was raining again as the cloud floated about the summit.

Once I reached the trig point I headed down towards a stalker's path that would lead me to the Ardlair to Kernsary track. Not long after leaving the summit I saw a couple of antlers behind some rocks and suddenly a stag stood up and stared at me. We looked at each other for several minutes before I moved and the stag ran off.

The stalker's path was found and I followed it down to the Ardlair to Kernsary track before walking back to Kernsary and a cycle back to Poolewe, the end of a long but enjoyable day in a very remote part of the country. During this trip I never saw or met anyone else so it is possible to walk in Scotland at the weekend without meeting another soul, well at least when the weather forecast is poor.

Beinn Lair Corbett first ascent 860 metres

Meall Mheinnidh Graham first ascent 722 metres

Beinn Airigh Charr Corbett first ascent 791 metres